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Less picturesque than the historic, colonial heart of Exeter, Railroad Avenue can at times feel a bit depressing, especially when compared the the town's lovelier centre. Conveniently located next to the Downeaster Amtrak Rail Service (which is regular, but not often enough for the noise to be too annoying), the area around the train station is home to Romeo's, one of the town's more popular pizzerias (on Lincoln Street) as well as to a general store that also operates an authentic, down-home "truck style" cafe (expect coffee served in mugs, seats at the counter, and plenty of pie). Walk closer into town along Lincoln Street and the buildings steadily grow more historic. A popular bakery here is worth a stop for some delectable cakes and biscuits. But for livelier activity, and more New England charm, consider living closer to the centre of town, although such quaintness comes with a price tag.

Not as historic or as pretty as the West Village, not as lively as Chelsea, West 15th Street is a largely commercial area with little distinctive character or charm. It has its perks - it's close to several 14th Street/Union Square subway stops for a variety of subway lines - and the convenience of Union Square, with its myriad cafes, bookstores, and record shops (not to mention a pleasant picnicking park). But West 15th Street itself is little more than a basic shopping destination. Nearby high-street options include Pier 1 Imports, Foot Locker, Urban Outfitters, and Staples, while dining choices tend to be of the equally chain variety: there's a Subway, and a nearby Starbucks. Further west, however, choices get more interesting - visit the Chelsea Market for some local finds, or try trendier dining options like Le Gamin Cafe, La Taza Deora, or the Chelsea-fied Vynl. Avoid the Port Authority building at night - it's a bit sketchy.

This short stretch of Tribeca, located just steps from the Washington Market Park and Tribeca Performing Arts Centre, is dense indeed when it comes to attractions-per-foot . With an easy-to-reach subway stop (serving the A,C,E,F,N, and R trains), it's ideal for active types looking to get in and out of the city centre at a moment's notice - but the attractions here are numerous enough to entertained even the most seasoned New Yorker. Visit galleries like Ethan Cohen Fine Art, Artflag, Pelavin Editions, or nearby Michael Perez Gallery, or indulge in the cafes a mere stone's throw from the street. Nearby dining options include health-fan-favorite Viet Cafe, laid-back Gloria's Restaurant, Dean's Pizzeria - for those who prefer their pies upmarket - Zutto Japanese, and trendy speakeasy-style bar Hideaway. While the area's dense, it's not crowded - these bars are populated without there being ten-mile-long queues: the area's bars have a largely well-heeled, yet "local" feel: a perfect balance of elegant and comfort.

Dominated by the campus of NYU, which is dotted all around this area, the small, little-known Great Jones Street is an ideal destination for artistically-inclined 20-somethings, whether NYU students or no, looking to get involved in the city's hipster-lite nightlife. With a massive NYU development at one end of the street, Great Jones Street is not the place to go to if you want to avoid noise or fake-IDs, but there's plenty of options if you're willing to join in the fun: check out the oddly named Chinatown Brasserie, or go low-key with the West 3rd Common. Le Basket is also popular for its French delicacies. One of the city's most popular brunches is at nearby Five Points, so gear up for an afternoon of mimosas and lox. There's also an enormously high number of art galleries, craftsmen, and vintage boutiques on the block, including Michael Andrews Bespoke and retro-types' dream Screaming Mimies, delivering high-class vintage gear. A lovely, lively street.

This scenic slice of SoHo, with picturesque red brick town houses and plenty of green foliage, is among downtown's more pleasant streets. With its wooden facades - home to plenty of arty boutiques and all-organic restaurants - it is a welcome respite from the all-too-modern concrete blocks that fill up some nearby streets. There's plenty to do and see here: the Thompson Cafe is a popular spot for locals to drink lattes or cappuccinos and people-watch, while the French-Moroccan Country Cafe is an elegant piece of cross-cultural fusion. Shops and boutiques along this street include the delectable Kee's Chocolate, the Meg Cohen Design Shop, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Cartesian Graphics, and more. The end of the street provides some welcome parkland in the form of Juan Pablo Duarte Square, but the major attractive of this charming, if pricey, street is its "village" feel - it combines the elegance of New York's best with some much-needed peace and quiet in the big city. At least until the lights go off...this area's nightlife can prove hectic if unmanaged.

Not quite the posh tree-lined enclave of the Upper East Side, not quite the buzzing commercial area of midtown, the East 50's are one of the rare parts of New York City to lack a distinct neighborhood character. Around 5th Avenue, the area is gorgeous and elegant - here is the shopping capital of the world, where Bergdorf's and Bendel's are populated by an international jet-setting (and jet-shopping) elite. But head further east and the landscape changes, transforming into a largely sedate area filled with office buildings and their attendant amenities (plenty of Starbucks and sandwich delis). By the time you reach the East River, however, you've found your way to another up-and-coming neighborhood: the stunning river-views in these modern developments have attracted a number of young professionals drawn by the low prices and picturesque panoramas, and the far East 50's have a decidedly "young" vibe. Hit up some up-and-coming-bars like the River Club, Mimi's, Travis, and the perennially popular Le Perigourd, popular with the uber-posh old money Sutton Place set located just a few blocks to the north.

The West 40's are a curious collection of streets in Manhattan. On the one hand, they're jam-packed with tourists (and the attendant ills - crowds, noise, backed-up streets) staying at any one of the number of midtown business and leisure hotels located in this district. They're far from charming - no pre-war co-ops, Art Deco skyscrapers, or tree-lined brownstone streets here - and yet somehow West 40th Street has a certain charm. Is it the proximity of Broadway, which even in the most "touristy" shows still preserves a degree of energy unseen in most other theatre districts of the world? (Nearby theatres include the New Amsterdam, New Victory, New 42nd Street, and Foxwoods Theatre, among others) Is it the presence of the faded grandeur at some of the most elegant gentlemen's clubs (as in London-style clubs, not strip joints) of yesteryear, like the Algonquin? Is it the collection of dark-wood steakhouses - alongside chain restaurants like Red Lobster unheard of elsewhere in New York? The juxtaposition of the derelict Port Authority with the lively Times Square? Good, bad, or ugly - (and usually all three at th same time), there's something special about this area.

You just might not want to live there.

While the houses on the eastern end of this slender Greenwich Village Street are beautiful in the traditional Greenwich village manner - nineteenth-century brick, wrought-iron balustrades, trees shading these out-of-the-way blocks - the charm factor of the neighborhood drops precipitously as you head further west, approaching the blare and bustle of the West Side Highway (although cyclists will find much to enjoy on the riverside bike path - if they can brave the traffic and find a way across!) . In the eastern end of the street, you're near the popular (and historic) Cherry Lane Theatre, lovely dining venues like the Cornelia Street Cafe, Snack Tavern, and the Hudson Clearwater Restaurant, the scene dries up just a few minutes' walk west. Overall this is a great street if you're in the "Greenwich Village" part of it, but gets less pleasant the closer you are to the highway. It's still only a few minutes' walk of a difference overall, though - so even at its worst Morton Street has a fabulous location.

Manhattan can be a busy bustling place - an urban jungle rather than a verdant one. So the few acres of green parkland spread out over the city can often feel like tiny refuges: escape from the hustle and relentless energy of the big city. St. John's Park in the heart of Tribeca is seemingly one such place. This tiny stretch of greenery is relatively large - but while it's pretty to look at, it's less pleasant than it could be; the streets surrounding the park have been transformed into a circular road leading to the Holland Tunnel, cutting pedestrians off from the inner circle. However, while the parkland can only be viewed from a relative distance, there are other attractions in the area: the district is filled with arty boutiques like Wetlands and the Behr Thyssen Gallery, as well as a number of trendy dining joints. Hit up the relaxed Moomah Cafe just over on Hudson Street, on the other side of the Park or visit the upscale Brandy Library Lounge one block south of Ericcson. Not terribly much to do - but a pleasant enough place.

Water Street - Exeter, NH
The centre of this small town, Water Street is popular with students, parents, and tourists alike, although the somewhat over-the-top "Ye Olde" feel may isolate some locals, Filled with charming craft shops and refurbished eighteenth- and nineteenth-century buildings, this street is extraordinarily picturesque. Stop by popular eatery The Baker's Peel for a fresh-from-the-over breakfast, indulge in delicious sandwiches alongside students at The Green Bean, or spend hours on the free wireless at "bakery." If nature's by your thing, head down to the banks of the lake, and enjoy a glimpse of the Academy's famous crew team practicing by the boathouse. For a swank romantic meal out, the Inn by the Water is a gourmet's paradise with stunning river views, although for a more affordable shot at the same view, Penang Tokoyo has a more laid-back (largely studenty) atmosphere. Nightlife is largely limited to the Ioka, a renovated music hall that is now a combined cinema-events hall.

While locals might find the emphatic historical charm (and inflated touristic prices) of the city's main street a bit twee, they often flock to the attractions along this busy highway. While the strip-mall feel is decidedly less charming than the atmosphere city's colonial centre, it's nevertheless a very useful street - one of the town's few local grocery stores, the organic take-out venture Off the Vine, provides excellent soup, salad, sushi, and groceries, while the enormous Stop and Shop is home to the town's only Starbucks. While this area is functional more than aesthetic, it's nevertheless a good place to shop at "local" rather than "proud Academy parent" prices. Plenty of chain restaurants, including Denny's, have outlets here, as do a number of the town's delivery pizzerias. There's also a Staples, a sport shop, and plenty of similarly useful stores. Pad Thai, just at the beginning of Portsmouth Avenue, is very popular with students and locals

Any self-respecting intellectual in New York City probably associates at least one venue with Crosby Street: the Housing Works bookstore. More intimate than The Strand, this charity used-bookstore also hosts a number of literary events, including readings and speakers (the cafe is also a prime spot to meet other would-be-Ginsbergs scribbling away at their novels). But this street has far more to offer than lattes and literature. It's a gorgeous, period street that offers a wealth of stunning, if pricey, lofts overlooking the numerous cafes, bars, and boutiques dotting the sidewalk. Check out nearby Amarcord vintage fashion, and pick up an amuse-bouch at Balthazar Bakery. Popular dining spots include two French bistros: Sur La Table and l'Orange Bleue. While the place can fill up on weekends with camera-sporting tourists, it's a pleasant - if pricey - location during the week, when the buzz is only mild (and still just enough to be trendy)

Stretching from the Meatpacking District in the north all the way down to Tribeca, Hudson Street is one of downtown's biggest (and widest) streets - somewhat jarring in a section of the city known more for its winding side-streets and cobblestoned blocks of townhouses than for its boulevards. Yet Hudson Street is a useful place - if not the city's most charming. Boutiques and counter-cultural bookstores are in short supply here (although Cherry Lane Theatre is a short walk away), but there is a thriving restaurant scene. Check out Le Petite Abeille, a tiny French bistro, or go for an equally low-key romantic dinner at Little Owl or a trendier night out at Centro Vinoteca nearby. There's also an equally lively bar scene, although it lacks the real character of some more "neighborhoody " places (the Barrow Pub being an exception) Plenty of delis abound if you're just looking for a lunchtime snack...

Worth Street's alternate name "Avenue of the Strongest," refers to the city's Department of Santitation which should tell you all you need to know about the eclectic charm - or lack thereof - of this street. While little is actually wrong with Worth Street, it's largely dull and clerical for those who don't work there; it's home to the headquarters of the New York City Health and Hospitals Corporation at Number 125, the Department o Health and Mental Hygeeine, and the Department of Sanitation, as well as the New York County Supreme Court and Daniel Patrick Moynihan Courthouses. All useful places to visit when in need, no doubt,but hardly the basis on which the next trendy neighborhood is predicated. With the exception of a few fast-food joints like Subway, there aren't too many places to eat (although Compose is the closest thing you'll find to a "nice" night out, and has a good reputation), so come stocked up on sandwiches if you have an appointment in the neighborhood

Crowds of tourists and terrified prospective applicants notwithstanding, Harvard Square has somehow managed to retain its distinctive intellectual-youth-cool vibe. While you may never get to live in vicinity unless you get the fated acceptance letter (or just teach there), it's unlikely that you'll be young and fun in Boston without getting sucked into Harvard Square's orbit. The area is designed as a paradise for young people - the Harvard Campus is surrounded by a wealth of cheap, arty eateries, not to mention the Harvard Coop, a Mecca bookstore-cafe for laptop-carrying students looking to wolf down a sandwich over an essay on Heiddegger (got a great selection as well!). Head to any of the boutiques and novelty shops to pick up fun gifts, or wolf down a sandwich at one of the cafes that come and go in the area. Or, if parents are paying, head to Brattle Street and eat at the legendary Casablanca Restaurant before checking out vintage cinema at the Brattle Street theatre. While the vibe can be snobby when it comes to non-Harvard students, don't take it personally - they've probably been up all night studying Heiddegger (and drinking shots)

As a student at a nearby New England boarding school, I always found that one of my favorite weekend pastimes was escaping "off-campus" to Boston, about an hour away by train. Inevitably, I would find myself wandering to Charles Street, one of the most scenic and charming streets not just in Boston proper, but arguaby in the United States. At its best in spring, when the blossoms on the trees lining these period streets begin to bloom, Charles Street is gorgeous all year long, with sedate brick buildings and plenty of European-style outdoor cafes. Check out arty Room with a Vieux antiques for a few household set pieces, then hit up breakfast at any of the local cafes, or lunch at Artu on Charles Street, the lower-key Beacon Hill Bistro, Toscano Restaurant, or Figs pizzeria. With marvelous access to public transport, and moments by foot from the charms of Beacon Hill, Charles Street is Boston's premier destination

Like many of the charming towns that line this part of the Berkshires, Lenox is at its best when combining two worlds - the gorgeous pastoral quietness of the East Coast countryside with the exciting, always-novel artistic legacy of the Berkshires. Lenox has it all. A participant in the annual Tanglewood Music Festival, as well as home to one of the country's best summer stock companies, and within easy reach of cultural events like Jacob's Pillow, Lenox has all the benefits of city life - from fine dining to great nightlife - without ever sacrificing its historical charm. The Red Lion Inn, a slightly pricey but very much worth it hotel and restaurant, is the must-try place in this town, although other options include the Bistrot Zinc and the Church Street Cafe. While public transport can be difficult in this part of the Berkshires - often involving several bus changes - those with a car will find getting around easy. Good nearby schools include Berkshire Country Day and the artier Bard at Simon's Rock.

While much of the area surrounding Wall Street is taken up by the offices of the nation's financial elite, John Street offers more accessible fare in the form of some of the neighborhood's best restaurants and bars - even bankers have to eat, right? - including a branch of the city's Gallic standby Les Halles. While the prices are likely to be high - and the atmospheres designed to be conducive to shmoozing - the restaurants have nearly uniformly high quality and impeccable service to match their swank but serious clientele. Check out the low-key John Street Bar and Grill for some simple cuts of steak served right, hurry through a five-minute lunch break with the tasty salads at Toasties,or get spicy with Maggie's Cajun! While bars, clubs, and music venues are at a minimum here - the entertainment is strictly designed to cater to the lunch hour - the food in this area is a vast step up from the wraps and lunch carts that dominate much of midtown. But what can you expect in a town where the bankers are kings?

Tucked away just south of West Houston Street, this sleepy street is well-placed conveniently between two subway stops, Spring Street for the A,C, and E trains, and Houston Street for the 1 and 2 trains. Also located near a number of municipal buildings, among them the U.S. Small Business Small Business Administration and National Archives, this area can feel a bit soulless, especially given the look and layout: a number of unattractive, boxy administrative buildings dominate this street, rather than the charming brick townhouses for which must of the West Village is known. There isn't much to do here - the area is primarily composed of offices - although those with a sweet tooth might want to supplement their rendez-vous with the National Archives with a trip to the Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven (although there's a wealth of standard fast-food and bagel-options as well for the less choosy). King Street is, overall, a primarily functional commercial area, albeit one with fewer culinary and nightlife options than elsewhere in the city. Its location, however, makes it a convenient commuter destination.

While some of the streets of the tree-lined, charming West-Village can seem a bit twee, with their Georgian townhouses and leafy overhead, Barrow Street - by contrast - maintains a clear sense of historical charm. Home to a number of artistic ventures, including the famous Barrow Street Theatre, the Barrow Street poetry journal/centre, and the nearby Cherry Lane Theatre, this area is an ideal venture for the savvy theatregoer looking for something beyond the blockbusters of Broadway or the avant-garde experimentalism of the outer boroughs. It's also a paradise for foodies: while Barrow Street itself has few restaurants, side-streets offer a wealth of options (rendering Barrow Street more pleasantly quiet than its neighbors) including Yakiniku Takashi Restaurant, the charming Petite Abeille Bistro, and new American Commerce Restaurant. Or head to the Barrow Pub to drink a pint with the locals. While the area can be a bit touristy, it's far less so than midtown, and while its vibe isn't quite alternative, it's nevertheless pleasantly artistic.

You might be forgiven if, upon coming to Waverly Place, with its beautiful Georgian brick buildings and quiet tree-lined promenade, you think you've stepped into the 19th century. There's something of Edith Wharton's New York in this idyllic side-street off Washington Square. Though prices are similarly elevated - we wonder if Wharton's Lily Bart could have afforded some of these stately townhouses - if you can afford it, Waverly Place is one of the city's loveliest spots. A stone's throw from the greenery of Washington Square Park, Waverly Place is also within easy access of the artier scene of Astor Place and the East Village. Bridging the elegant gentility of the West Village with the faux-trashy vibe of the East, this street has plenty of delights of its own. While it's mostly residential, locals can nevertheless enjoy a drink at Murphy & Gonzalez or dine at Babbo. Pop into the Washington Square Hotel for a posh drink - but be sure to keep an eagle eye on your tab!

At night the place can get inundated with students from nearby NYU however, destroying the idyllic vibe - so don't get too attached to the peace and quiet!

Every tourist should take at least one jaunt down to the south side of Manhattan. Whether you're hitting up the nearby Ellis Island Immigration Museum, with its testament to the stories of thousands of hopeful immigrants arriving in search of the American dream, of walking through Battery Park, this part of the city represents the real "old New York" that seems sometimes to have been swallowed up in the metropolis. The area is well-served by public transport, including the Staten Island Ferry (itself a prime New York City tourist destination, and one not well-enough appreciated), but it's far from residential: the street consists mostly of chrome-and-glass office buildings and plenty of quick-n'-cheap dining options (Dunkin' Donuts, Au Bon Pain, etc.) Fraunces Tavern is the only place of note nearby, and that's known for its historic pedigree (where Washington said goodbye to the troops) more than for its culinary fare. But tourists should be pleased by the wealth of historical sites in the area, and as far as office-streets go, its a perfectly pleasant place to work! Just wear a scarf in winter: the water renders this area very cold indeed!

Grimy and grungy, the Bowery has still managed to maintain some of its gutter-cache over the years. While gentrification (not to mention a bunch of lamp stores) have lifted the place from its derelict roots, the Bowery nevertheless has a distinctively authentic feel. The authenticity is, of course, studied: the Bowery is far less "downmarket" than the South Bronx, but when compared to the skyrocketing rents and cutesy brunch bars that have afflicted East and West Village alike, the gradual cleaning-up of the Bowery seems less severe. Rivington Street in particular has a storied history: it was the site of the first settlement house in New York, the University Settlement House (which now provides community support services), and today is home to a number of bars, restaurants, and clubs. Popular dining-out options here include Schiller's Restaurant, Sugar Sweet Sunshine, and musician Moby's recent vegan venture. But bars and galleries are more de rigeur here than fine dining: check out CV for music and dancing, or hit up the artsy scene at performance/community centre ABC No Rio.

While much of the West Village has been so gentrified that the neighborhood has come to resemble the Upper East Side much more than it does its downtown neighbors, Carmine Street still maintains some of its old-school - and Old World - charm. From record stores to funky bookshops, Carmine Street, despite its relatively small size, seems to have it all. Check out the House of Oldies, a bona fide record store focusing on 50's and 60's soul, R&B, and bluegrass, located between Bedford and Bleecker Streets. Or get your left-wing conspiracy-nut on at the humorously named Unoppressive Not-Imperialist Bargain Books, a political and activist bookstore. Or think about redecorating at 20's themed antique shop The Lively Set, peopled by celebrities as well as mere mortals looking to add a sconce or two to the bathroom. Dining options in this district are plentiful; check out popular Market Table, or head to lesser-known but still worthwhile venues like Mas Farmhouse and the laid-back Blue Ribbon Bakery and Cafe.

If you're an aspiring filmmaker, a postmodern performance artist, a would-be storyteller, or a collector of indie music records (or if you just go to NYU), MacDougal Street is the place for you. A quick look at the sheer number of restaurants, bars, and delis swarming the street as it winds up to Washington Square Park should be the first indication that you've entered hard-core student territory. While this can in many ways be a boon - inexpensive, varied eats and plenty of lively nightlife seem to follow wherever students rest their heads - more established professionals may want to think twice before settling down plop-in-the-middle of the latest Tisch nightlife scene. But even snobby foodies may want to give these diamond-in-the-rough joints a try. Taste the tantalizing Mediterranean fare at Mamoun's Restaurant, or head upscale at the Minetta Tavern. Cheaper venues for takeaway or a chow-down are also plentiful in the area. If you're an extroverted student (or still wish you were one), few streets could be better-suited for you - but professors may want to look elsewhere.

As a recent satirical youtube video made clear, Murray Hill has been taking on a new name for itself in recent years. An extended college dormitory (in which everybody seems to know, or at least be Facebook friends with, everyone else) for wealthy (independently or no) twenty-somethings who prefer i-banking to Williamsburg organic farming, Murray Hill has been somewhat taken to task for its dive bar culture, rowdy apartment blocks, and the number of post-beer-bong blackouts taking place on these city streets. For those just getting out of college looking to party with like-minded graduates, Murray Hill can be a dream: its close, even cloistered, culture requires little adjustment from the all-night-parties and hook-up-gossip of college. For everyone else, however - including artsier types - Murray Hill can quickly devolve into a nightmare of drunken antics in the corridor, vomit on the doorstep, and an evening drink at pubs like The Hill and Rodeo taken over by large groups downing shots. If you want the party to continue forever, head on down! Otherwise, think twice - or invest in ear plugs!

Celebrated in song and dance, 42nd Street is often portrayed as New York City's biggest neon jungle - a playground of "little nifties from the fifties" and "indiscreet" ladies from further uptown. But this is only partly true. While the stretch of 42nd Street running West from 5th Avenue is certainly filled with enough gaudy lights and glitzy signs to warm even the most cynical New Yorker's heart, the part of 42nd Street that heads from 5th Avenue to the East River is much more sedate and infinitely more "liveable." A largely commercial area with plenty of aesthetically pleasing, upscale office buildings, East 42nd Street is dominated by a few major buildings, among them Grand Central Station (a pleasant place to pass through even for those who aren't traveling, due to its wealth of dining options in the Concourse and its Christmas bazaar), the shimmering, iconic Art Deco Chrysler building, the United Nations, and the New York Public Library, an imposing turn-of-the-century building located in pleasant Bryant Park that is among the city's must-sees for any tourist. But even further east, this area is well worth visiting, as the office-y area gets a slightly swanker character due to the presence of the diplomatic community around the U.N. Check out Liati's Cafe for a quick takeaway lunch to break up the work-day, or celebrate after a hard day at the office at Cecil's, both located on 42nd Street.

In the city that never sleeps, West 60th Street and its environs at time appear to be the most awake of all. While more residential neighborhoods of the city can feel like a village-within-a-metropolis, the urbane elements of New York are all constantly at play here: shoppers can head to the sleek chrome-and-glass Time Warner Building, where luxurious brands like Whole Foods and Sisley have made their home alongside edgy new restaurants and a purpose-built jazz centre, while fans of the arts have their work cut out for them: Lincoln Center is home to some of the city's best music, art, dance, and cinema. Even fitness freaks will be pleased to note that West 60th Street is bounded by two of the city's best outdoor spaces: to the east, there's lush central Park, while the west leads to the bicycle path that heads down West Side Highway (and its attendant basketball courts, jogging track, and cafes that line the riverside park.) The area is also home to branches of a number of universities, including Fordham and the John Jay College of Criminal Justice. While, with the exception of Gabriel's, most dining options lie a block or two further south, this still constitutes less than a two-minute walk for your average New Yorker. With this much culture in a few-block radius, why ever even cross the park?

A tiny cluster of streets and red brick buildings, Durham is - like nearby Exeter - defined by its academy. Less upscale and picturesque than Exeter, which makes a roaring tourist trade off proud parents looking to invest in a piece New England memorabilia - Durham has a grittier, more functional feel. Its enormous campus dominates the town, which has little besides standard college-student joints.

It's likely that non-drivers visiting New England will end up in Durham; the University bus network - WILDCATS, which heads to Portsmouth, Newington, and other regional centres, is based here - as is the non-UNH-affiliated bus company. (Durham is also a stop on the Downeaster train, which connects Portland, Exeter, and Boston, among other New England towns). Tourists visiting New England without a car should thus expect to end up here for at least one lunchtime, a lunchtime that would be well-served by visiting the authentic, Old World Three Chimneys Inn, although Young's Coffee Shop may be just fine for budget travelers.

Most famous as the home of centuries-old preparatory boarding school Phillips Exeter Academy (also one of the town's major employers), Exeter is a town of extraordinary contrasts. The town center - quite near the school's vast and leafy campus - is a tourist's dream, with plenty of charming shops, restaurants, and gift stores. Yet a few miles away, beyond the sight of many tourists (often proud Academy parents) trailer parks proliferate, and at times the tensions between town and gown can be palpable. That said, Exeter is a gorgeous place to visit or live, although long-term residents may feel frustrated at the lack of significant nightlife and the early closure (8 pm) of most cafes in the area. The town's best restaurants include The Exeter Inn (a pricey but charming choice - somewhat less Old New England since the renovation), Inn by the Water, and the cheaper Penang Tokyo, beloved of Academy Students. Walk along the town's less scenic Portsmouth Avenue to shop at lower prices (and hit up the town's only Starbucks, hidden at the Stop and Shop at the end of the avenue). Public transport isn't the best, here - the Downeaster train to nearby Durham (and its vast network of buses) is the only way to get around the region if you miss the scare weekdays-only buses (the Downeaster train also gets you to Portland, ME, and Boston, MA); most residents will need a car, although the town itself is quite walkable.

With its row of chain restaurants and requisite gas stations every five seconds, Hicksville, NY, can at times feel more like (a New Yorker's perception) of "real" America than Long Island. Filled with malls, big box chains, and restaurant franchises, Hicksville is a perfectly decent and well-stocked town (although it's far from walkable - it seems to be composed of highways) that nevertheless could use a bit more flair and individuality. On the plus side, Hicksville is located a convenient drive away from the shores of Oyster Bay. The Millridge Inn in nearby Jericho, a five-minute drive from the Hicksville Train Station, is perhaps the best place to eat in town: it offers pricey but delicious Ye Olde Americana fare, and the adjacent "Millridge Village" with its quaint candy and toy stores are a perfect way to spend an hour or two with a child in tow. Also worthwhile is the local steakhouse. But if you're looking to live somewhere that has its own individual character and flair, while still being within commuter distance of New York, you might want to look elsewhere.

Home of the famous "South Street Seaport," with which South Street is inexorably linked, this small street on the southeastern boundaries of Manhattan is home to one of New York's most delightful historic sights. While, tragically, much of the seaport - particularly the old Fulton Fish Market - has been transformed into a rather one-note, if well-designed, shopping mall, the historic character of the seaport remains, and is worth a visit by tourists and locals alike. Nineteenth-century (and earlier) ships still bob in the harbor, while the mercantile buildings along the seaport itself are a rare unsullied reminder of another age. The deck views of the East River are also stunning, and well worth a picnic in warmer weather. The area's a tourism and commerce centre rather than a residential one, however, and if the crowds of tourists showing up don't deter you from setting up full-time shop here, the pungent smell of fish (though diminished since the market's closure) may well do so. Even locals, however, might want to head down here in the summer, where the art nouveau Spiegeltent, a seasonal circus-tent music venue, plays host to such in-style acts as Vienna Teng and Duncan Sheik. Head to some of the restaurants in the area for top-quality Atlantic seafood. Try The River Cafe or Bridge Cafe.

While Union Square is one of the city's nicest spots, with its farmers' market, generous splash of greenery, and nearby wealth of bookstores, cinemas, and clothing stores, its southern border becomes far less pleasant the further east one goes. While around and below Astor Place, the endearingly gritty-gentrified feeling of the East Village prevails, with some of the city's best low-cost (but rising) dining, far less scenic is East 14th Street. A major transport street, with numerous bus and subway stops, this wide thoroughfare is filled with cheap neon-signed fast food joints and corner-store pharmacies, a far cry from the flea markets, boho theatres, and falafel restaurants available a few blocks further south. As a convenient, well-lit way to walk from the East Village into Union Square at night, it's a worthy option, but it is far less of an attraction as a destination in its own right. If you're looking to purchase or rent in the area, consider heading further south - East 10th, 9th, or 8th Streets are good options, as are the cafes lining avenues A, B, and C. That said, if you're looking to buy electronics, the stretch of 14th Street just east of Union Square has a number of appliance and electronic stores.

If you've ever had to sort out a visa or other passport issue, you may well have come down to Varick Street and spent hours in waiting rooms at the Varick Street Immigration Court. Outside of issues of legality and border control, however, Varick Street has little significant to offer. It's by no means an unpleasant street - on the contrary, it's a perfectly scenic downtown street running through Tribeca and the West Village, well-located near a variety of "neighborhoods," each with their own lively restaurant and bar scene. But Varick Street seems to be "always a bridesmaid, never the bride" when it comes to the attention lavished on its neighbors. It's always in proximity to the Next Big Bar Street without ever attaining that honor.

In many ways, this is quite a good thing. Given the relatively small size of New York City's downtown, the bars and clubs of other downtown areas are but a five minute walkaway. But Varick Street itself benefits from this tiny distance, making it an eminently more livable street (especially on a Friday and Saturday night at bar closing time). Just don't get into any trouble with Immigration!

Running along the Eastern edge of Lower Manhattan, Cherry Street seems like a time machine into a bygone age, a Lower East Side all but lost to trendy cocktail bars and open-mic slam poetry nights. There's no sign of a Williamsburg-esque renewal here; Cherry Street is one of the few New York streets to retain tenement housing alongside plenty of public-housing options, making the area a surprisingly affordable one. That's not to say Cherry Street is dangerous, however, although it's far from pleasant - the occassional scent of urine seems to be a fixture near the hulking overpass. There's not much on here; a few community centres and a grocery store or two are all that's available for the social butterfly, along Corlears Hook Park is present enough, and the East River Bikeway is a free gym for sports fans. When all's said and done, however, it's price - rather than charm - that render Cherry Street an option for the potential home-buyer or renter, although its lack of bohemian pretension and loud bars might make it particularly appealing for quiet and at-homey types.

The point at which the grid system starts to get complicated, West 14th Street stands between midtown proper and the West Village, incorporating elements of both neighborhoods. On the one hand, West 14th Street is near a number of attractive Village locations - from Greenwich Avenue's neo-quaint tea house Tea and Sympathy to the taverns and bars dotting trendy Jane Street - on the other hand, the street itself is more likely to play home to discount big-box retailers and Century 21s than it is to host arty boutiques selling handmade crafts. This is convenient for the frequent shopper, of course, but what it gains in convenience it loses in charm. West 14th Street is very much a commercial location: you can find anything from clothing to electronics here, and get around quite easily due to the high transport links. It's not, however, an extraordinarily livable area. If you're looking for charm and comfort, head further south and further west,

Commercial and bustling, Lexington Avenue seems to stand in contrast to much of the staid,

elegant Upper East Side. Whereas on Madison Avenue, the storefronts will inevitably be erfectly

color-coded and subdued, Lexington Avenue's glitz and glare is chaotic, often gleefully so.

From chain stores like Best Buy and Gap to smaller venues like 88th Street's bike store - a

city standby - Lexington Avenue is where you go to get errands done cheaply and conveniently.

That's not to say it doesn't have its charms. Head a bit further south, and in the 70's and

60's you'll get a more charming atmosphere than the cluttered area around 86th Street, complete

with Orsay, one of the city's best low-key French brasseires, at 76th Street, and the New York

branch of artsy bookstore Shakespeare and Company. By and large, the further south you go, the

more "liveable" this area is - but proximity to the Lex-and-86th area can be a great boon to

shoppers.

Located in the heart of Midtown, West 57th Street has it all for culture vultures. Proximity to some of the most thrilling and thriving arts scenes in Manhattan - from the glitz and glamour of the major Broadway shows to the highbrow classical and ballet performances at Lincoln Centre to the top-notch music at nearby Carnegie Hall - makes this busy neighborhood far more flavorful than the offices and business-lunch places that dot much of Midtown Manhattan. While the lacklustre high-rises, punctuated on occassion by scenic Art Deco buildings, don't exactly add character, West 57th Street is also an easy walk from Central Park, where evocative horse-carriages wait patiently outside the park walls to (depending on your perspective) either provide visitors with a charming Gilded Age experience or fleece them dry. The food in this area is also a cut above the businessmen's joints further south; head to the Trattoria dell'Arte on 7th Avenue for some of the city's best antipasti, Greek Molyvos for something more upscale than your typical taverna, or visit takeaways Morton Williams or Whole Foods for a cheaper option. Easily accessible either from the Q train or the 1-2-3 subway line. There is an M57 heading crosstown.

Next December, ask a New Yorker about Rockefeller Centre. You'll probably get a litany of complaints - too crowded, too full of tourists, charmless, soulless. That New Yorker, it must be said, is wrong. Few things are more emblematic of New York's irresistible charm than the sight of the Rockefeller Center Tree at Christmas, miles high and adorned with all manner of sparkling ornaments. But Christmas isn't this area's only delight. Nearby boutiques surrounding the sometime figure-skating rink include a French bookstore, several chocolate shops, and a few artisinal boutiques, not to mention the elegant wealth of Fifth Avenue designer shops just perpendicular to the Plaza. It's true that the subterranean area might offer more chain stores than a particularly snobbish New Yorker might, it's got far more character and edge than any mall we've visited. Check out the splendid architecture in many of the office buildings in the plaza, including Joseph Maria Sert's murals in the JE building and Isamu Noguchi's "News" (a famous mural by Diego Rivera was painted here as well, but was taken down for inciting controversy). While there's little reason for anyone to live here, or come here regularly other than for work, it's still a highlight of any tourist's trip to the city, and well worth a visit or two.

Once upon a time, East 23th Street was a bastion of the burgeoning New York City fashion industry. Major department stores dominated the horizon along Sixth avenue from Union Square northwards, cutting a mile-long swath of New York City old-world elegance. Today, however, high-end has been replaced by big-discount, as a number of clearance centres, superstores, and slightly shady back-room dealers make up this decidedly charming district. Major retailers have made their home here, along them TJ Maxx, Bed Bed Beyond, and Filene's Basement, as well as Old Navy. For the most part, though, this district is little more than a commercial wasteland of depressing bargain buckets and basement sales, punctuated by a few shady DVD stores that sell more than the latest Twilight DVDs and fast-food shops. While it's worth heading to this neighborhood to do some bottom-dollar shopping, this isn't exactly the most scenic tourist trail, nor is it a livable destination. Worth a brief visit, but avoid for longer periods.

The East Village may be one of the last bastions of true Manhattan grit, in an age when the West Village has succumbed to sangria-and-strollers-brand yuppidom and even Brooklyn is priced beyond the means of most would-be installation artists. While the East Village is undergoing its own brand of gentrification, it's nevertheless an anomaly in Manhattan proper: a place where alternative culture still thrives, albeit with a healthy infusion of fresh blood from the Bridge and Tunnel crowd. East 9th Street etween Avenue A and Second Avenue is home to a collection of shops and galleries that embody this trend - smart but funky locales like Jill Anderson and Huminska, both of whom have made a small but growing name for themselves on the NYC fashion scene. Hit up nearby eateries like Chez Jules (St. Mark's St between 2nd and 1st Avenue), with live jazz and cooked snails, or Curry Row standout Banjara on 6th St between 1st and 2nd.

Best known for its traditional fish market, Fulton Street today leads into the South Street Seaport, a bizarre cross between a charming tourist attraction and a decidedly charmless mall. The new developments at South Street Seaport have turned this once-historic port area into a shopping centre, with mixed results. On the one hand, the ships still in the harbor, the smell of appetizingly fresh fish, and the wooden gangways all provide a sense of history unparalleled by much of Manhattan, with the exception of Fraunces Tavern and parts of New Amsterdam. On the other hand, the shopping complex itself is relatively uniform and uninteresting, with bland retail chains dotting the admittedly picturesque glass building. Yet South Street Seaport does offer contemporary delights. There's a wealth on here in the summers, including the alternative Spiegeltent, a 19th-century-style circus tent that has in the past played home to singer-songwriter Vienna Teng and rock impresario Duncan Sheik, lately of Spring Awakening fame. The dining here is good and, as you might imagine, rather pescatarian in its leanings. Try old-school Bridge Cafe or straightforwardly named Fish Market.

This major thoroughfare, ferrying passengers from the East River to Fifth Avenue, may not be the most scenic of thoroughfares - especially given the proximity of quieter, more picturesque cross-streets and brownstones elsewhere on the Upper West Side, but what it lacks in aesthetics (and it's certainly perfectly pleasant on that account, if less quaint than other areas) it makes up for in convenient. There is a bus route running crosstown both directions along 79th street, making getting to and fro a breeze. Likewise, the street runs the gamut of neighborhoods and areas - start at Fifth Avenue but a few blocks from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, then head East, towards the charmingly low-key enclave of Yorkville. This area boasts quite a few amenities, among them the proximity of All Souls Church and a number of the city's best restaurants, including Candle 79, Quatorze Bis, Il Riccio, and Yorkville Restaurant. From the elegant shops of Madison to the quiet parkside street at Fifth, E 79 Street is a pleasant and useful street - even if it lacks the Old World charm of some of its less centrally situated neighbors.

Canal Street has been the subject of many negative stereotypes over the years - from cheap knockoff bags to unpleasant and blaring noise. While it is true that Canal Street can be uncomfortably crowded and chaotic - it's still a worthwhile destination for a visitor interested in seeing another side of New York City life. Designer bags and grey market goods, as well as counterfeit DVDs, are often on sale here, along with a number of novelty goods of varying quality. Often, shops in this area will have a hidden "back room" where you can be shown all manner of knockoffs kept surreptitiously off the street to avoid unwanted police surveillance. Note that knockoffs and the sale thereof are illegal, and conduct your acts accordingly. Yet this isn't Jack Nicholson or Faye Dunaway's Chinatown - it's relatively safe (normal caution should be applied - don't flash your cash everywhere you go). Remember - unlike the boutiques of Madison Avenue, sellers here are open to haggling, so go with a price in mind and be prepared to bargain down, down, down.

Along with Beekmen Place, Sutton Place makes up one of the most affluent areas in New York City. These two cul de sacs make up one of the city's quietest areas, with a line of elegant townhouses shrouded by leafy trees, overlooking the parks that, while technically public, can sometimes seem to fashion as a private backyard for the area's residents. This place has a long and storied history as a playground for the rich and intentionally-out-of-the-papers, back in the days of Edith Wharton: Anne Harriman Vanderbilt lived here, as did Anne Morgan of J.P. fame. Today, the area retains its traditional charm, as well as its high-priced connotations. Unfortunately, there's little to do on these streets other than wander with sparkling effortlessness - to nearby East side avenues are not quit so charming, but they do offer basic necessities such as groceres, restaurants, etc. A bit further south, in the Kips Bay/UN area, the mood becomes more lively, as diplomats overtake socialites, an restaurants like the panoramic Beekman Hotel offer even the most staid inhabitants of Sutton Place something with which to fill their time.

Once a vanguard of the bohemian movement, Bleecker Street - on first glance - doesn't seem to have changed much over the years. It's still popping with life - bars, clubs, restaurants, and shops line every inch of this bustling downtown street. But take a little look closer, and you may find that this bohemian standby isn't quite what it used to be. The prices are significantly more expensive - and the shops more gentrified than you might expect. The proliferation of not-particularly-fun nightlife outlets has resulted in the place turning into an out-of-towners' paradise, with so many crowds in so many soulless barstools. That isn't to say the place has exactly gone to the dogs - there are few chain stores, which in New York City is in fact something of a blessing. The architecture, too, is charming - with brick buildings and brownstones offering a promising Village-y feel in a city all too known for its high-rises. But overall, in order to find more organic "gritty" village charm, head not to the West but to the East Village, where bohemia may be dead, but at least real estate prices aren't comparable to the Upper East Side. Bleecker Street is well worth a stroll at the best of times, but ultimately it's better-served as a thoroughfare or background rather than a destination in and of itself.

Not to be confused with entertainment behemoth Madison Square Garden, this quiet enclave of greenery at Madison and 23rd Street is a bit of a curious apparition: a park and sitting area in the midst of the bustling border between mid- and downtown. The area is pleasant enough for a business center - the Flatiron building is a welcome sight (and the coffee shop next door is one of a diminishing number of "proper" city coffee shops), although the downtown stretch of the square is dotted with decidedly unappetizing fast food franchises. It's not a place to live, though; much of the entertainment and dining options are limited to takeaway of varying quality (the Morton Williams near Union Square offers perhaps the most wholesome fare, on a budget less than that of nearby Whole Foods) and a few interesting looking business-lunch joints. That said, as hard as real estates try to sell the area as NoMad (North of Madison Avenue), it's not so much a neighborhood as a business nexus. Still, if you're going to have to spend most of your days in an office, you could do worse than pass by the scenic Art Deco buildings around this area - and NoMad, name aside, is among the more pleasant places you could work. You're near the Union Square and Gramercy Area, for starters!

Battery Park is often associated with stress far more than your average NYC green spot. Between the chaos of nearby Wall Street, the aching emptiness where the World Trade Center and Twin Towers once stood, and the hustle and bustle of commuters coming in from the Staten Island ferry, Battery Park at times can feel like a whirlwind rather than a park. But for New Yorkers and tourists alike, Battery Park can be a hidden pleasure. The bike path that lines the West Side Highway makes a circuitous route that ends up at Battery Park - making it an ideal "finishing line" for the exercise crowd. Likewise, the street artists and comfortable benches make this a perfect spot to sit and read - or just watch the world go by. (This is, however, a strictly summer-y pursuit; the wintertime turns Battery Park into one of the coldest, windiest spots in the city, given its proximity to not one but two bodies of water.)

A downside of Battery Park is the relative lack of indoor restaurants/cafes nearby or lining the park. While Fraunces Tavern is a great touristy venture, the nearest Starbucks is a fair few blocks away, and less chain-y outlets seem to be few and far between. The nearest amenities seem to be for a happy hour/post-work crowd, which can be daunting for the idle pleasure visitor. That said, while Battery Park doesn't have the neighborhood feel of - say - Central Park, it's nevertheless a highly worthwhile place to visit and spend an afternoon.

Established and received wisdom tells us that Times Square is anything but New York proper: a gaudy, glitzy array of chain stores, tourist traps, and blaring traffic, suitable for little more than a cursory glance by a passing tourist checking off items on a to-do list. But such a dismissal overlooks the very heart of Times Square's appeal. It's glitzy. It's gaudy. But above all things - in its camp and tacky way - it is New York. It may not be where the Upper East Side crowd goes to brunch, or where the hipsters have their raves, but there's something unbeatably corny about Times Square. It's the comfort-food of the city - a place to gorge on all the lights and sounds New York has to offer. Its shopping and dining options may not sound like all too much, but for this seasoned New Yorker, sometimes a walk through the neon lights of Times Square is just what the doctor ordered.

The crosstown stretch of 86th Street between Lexington Avenue and York is one of the most convenient places to shop on the Upper East Side. While the boutiques on Madison Avenue offer haute couture at decidedly "haute" prices, 86th Street offers a range of retail chains - from Barnes and Noble to Best Buy - that make the street a decidedly easy place to pick up, for example, a new CD or microwave. While the area is more convenient than charming - there's plenty of blaring traffic and more fast-food places than there are proper restaurants (although the presence of a Tasti D-Lite chain between 1st and 2nd Avenue is a major redeeming feature), the neighborhood feel is vibrant and mixed. Swank Park Avenue matrons mingle with more laid-back Yorkville types; students from nearby private girls' schools Brearley and Chapin, with their tailored uniforms, hang out alongside a more diverse crowd than seen elsewhere on the UES. In Casablanca, "everybody goes to Rick's" - but on the Upper East Side, everybody ends up on 86th Street once in a while - whether to go to one of the many cinemas, grab a snack at Papaya King, shop at Best Buy or the Gap, or read a book and browse and Barnes and Nobles.

SoHo's younger sister, NoHo - North of Houston Street - may not have quite the cachet of SoHo itself, but this downtown enclave of lofts and galleries is nevertheless up there when it comes to fashionable downtown neighborhoods. As effectively the "center" of downtown Manhattan, with easy access to the East and West Villages, Bowery, SoHo, Tribeca, and more, it can command high process, and its historic nineteenth and early-twentieth century houses, meticulously preserved by the NYC Landmarks Preservation Committee, only drive the cost per square foot up further.

NoHo has an artsy reputation; while its lofts might sell for millions today, they're more likely to go to wealthy graphic designers than to investment bankers. Cultural highlights in the area include the fantastic Angelika Film Centre, one of the best art house theatres in the city (with an excellent cafe to boot!), the Astor Place Theatre for stage finds, the Joseph Papp Public Theatre, and popular bookstores Mercer Street Books and Shakespeare and Company, both of whom cater to a more literary crowd than your average chains.

Midtown Manhattan is at once the most New York and the least New York of neighborhoods. It contains some of the city's most recognizable landmarks, like Broadway, the gleefully garish Times Square, and Rockefeller Square, home to the famous Christmas tree and winter ice skating ring, along with the Empire State and Chrysler buildings. And yet it's a neighborhood of New Yorkers at work, not at play, and lacks the real neighborhood character and feel of areas like Carnegie Hill, Greenwich Village, or the East Village. The glistening skyscrapers belong to a New York that's highly mythical, a New York of film and legend, and it's true that spending time in this district, particularly around Christmas, can be breath-taking at first. It's fast-paced, exciting, and altogether exhilarating. That said, it's best an area to visit or to work in: the lack of "down-time," both in terms of leisure activities and in term of quieter streets, can often begin to feel overwhelming.

That said, any visitor to Manhattan should make sure to do the basics: take a walk through Times Square (it must be done!), and see the city's new, bizarre lawn chairs in the middle of the city, meant to promote eco-friendly walking as opposed to cars. Visit a Broadway show - from the old chestnuts to avant-garde pieces of new writing, Broadway really does have something for everybody. Key restaurants in the area include touristy-but-fun theatre standby Sardi's, the more authentic Joe Allen's, and the charming Trattoria dell'Arte on 57th Street and 7th Avenue, known as much for its delicious antipasto bar as for the enormous marble body parts with which it is decorated.
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Far up north at the very tip of Manhattan, Inwood can seem worlds away from the hustle and bustle of downtown. More reminiscent of fifties-era Queens, with its leafy streets and quiet suburbia, Inwood hardly feels like Manhattan at all. Home to a largely Dominican population, Inwood is notable for its Art Deco buildings and many parks, such as Fort Tryon and Inwood Hill.

But all is not ideal there, either. Unlike the dreamy suburbia Inwood sometimes seems to aspire to be, violent crime and gang violence can be a problem, although not to the degree one associates with, say, the South Bronx. Still, with a bit of common sense, it can be a charming, if not ideal, neighborhood to live in.

Another thing to take into account is how far away Inwood is from the rest of Manhattan: despite being "on" Manhattan Island, it probably feels much further away from the action than the vast part of Brooklyn or Queens. So if you're drawn to Inwood purely as an affordable way to stay in Manhattan, rather than on its own merits, it might be worth thinking again.

Also known as the Fashion District or the Garment Center, this midtown neighborhood - spanning from 5th to 9th Avenues and from 34th to 42nd St, is historically known for its link with the fashion industry. That said, the name sounds more elegant than it is. While Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, and Nicole Miller may have workshops and business centres here, it doesn't really mean much to the average passerby, who is far more likely to be entranced by those same designers' shop windows on the elegant Madison Avenue. Less charming, the Garment District is merely another midtown collection of office blocks from the street level. That said, there are some benefits to the district. Many New Yorkers head there when looking for beads, curtains, or other fabric (Halloween costumes for the creatively minded, for example) - some mom-and-pop-type textiles stores still exist in the district, including wholesalers sometimes willing to sell to individuals.

Where to eat in the neighborhood? Sad to say it's slim pickings, but Smith and Wollensky has a decent reputation as one of the city's Great Steakhouses, with a strong showing in lobster for the less carnivorously minded.

It's hard to discuss the Civic Center as a neighborhood proper. Defined by the presence of federal and local government buildings like City Hall - wedding location extraordinaire, One Polic Plaza, Foley Square, and other official buildings, the district isn't exactly a place one would tend to live or visit except on a specific official capacity. For tourists, it's a historical look into the city's storied past - the Courthouse, for example, or the Brooklyn Bridge - whereas for residents, the area is synonymous with nuisances: jury duty, for example, or appearing in court for traffic violations.

One part of the Civic Centre is particularly worth seeing, however. That is the gloriously revitalized South Street Seaport, a historic port that combines museums, the famous Fulton Fish Market, and stunning views with a new and trendy nightlife, culture, and dining scene - mostly concentrated on (you guessed it) fish dishes! In the summer, the movable Beer Garden tent sets up shop here, a glorious art-nouveau style circus tent playing host to avant garde and alternative music acts like Vienna Teng and Spring Awakening music impresario Duncan Sheik.